Between 1975 and 1979, the Khmer Rouge took over Cambodia, with an estimated two million people killed or dying from starvation and exhaustion. Although it’s easy to find reminders of Cambodia’s dark past in the city of Phnom Penh, there are so many amazing things to do in the capital.
From dipping into Khmer culture and exploring the city’s heritage, to sampling amazing Camdosian street food specialities, here are the top things to do in Phnom Penh…
MUST DO
Visit the S21 Prison (Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum)
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This former high school in central Phnom Penh was transformed into a political prisoners’ camp during the Khmer Rouge regime in 1975. Known as Security Prison 21 (S-21), or Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide, it is estimated that 20,000 people were imprisoned here, between 1,000 and 1,500 at any one time. There were only twelve known survivors and the chief of the prison were convicted of crimes against humanity.
Today, S-21 Prison is one of Cambodia’s most visited attractions. Most of the site is in the same condition as it was discovered in 1979 when the Vietnamese army liberated Phnom Penh. The tiny brick cells, blood-splattered walls, and abandoned torture tools offer a sobering insight into the brutal regimes that were carried out here. Khmer Rouge kept detailed records of prisoners, and this is on show throughout.
Tip: If you’re travelling with family, it is important to note that this may not be suitable for younger children.
Included in: Cambodia Tour (Day 2)
Visit Choeung Ek Genocidal Center
The most famous monument to the killing fields, the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center has been built around the mass graves of the thousands of victims, most of which were executed here after a brutal interrogation at S-21 Prison. Almost 9,000 bodies were discovered at the mass graves of Choeung Ek.
Now serving as a memorial park, the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center features a Buddhist stupa filled with more than 8,000 human skulls. After heavy rainfall, you will notice that clothing and even bones surface due to the huge number of bodies in the shallow graves.
Tip: Choose to either walk around the graves yourself, learn more through a headset-guided walking tour, or join a guided walking tour.
Included in: Cambodia Tour (Day 2)
Explore The Royal Palace
Except for the time of the Khmer Rouge, this impressive palace has been occupied by the Kings of Cambodia since the 1860s, and the complex is divided into four main compounds; the Silver Pagoda, the Khemarin Palace, the Throne Hall and the Inner Court. Due to it still being the official residence of the royal family, only parts of the palace complex are open to the public.
The main attraction is the throne hall, with its 59-metre-high tower, three royal thrones and golden busts of previous Kings and Queens of Cambodia.
Included in: Cambodia Tour (Day 2)
See The Silver Pagoda (Preah Vihear Preak Keo Morakot)
One of Cambodia’s only temples to survive under the Khmer Rouge, the Silver Pagoda (or Temple of the Emerald-Crystal Buddha) is named for its silver floor which is covered in 5 tonnes of silver. Originally built in 1892 with wood (but rebuilt in 1962), the walls of the Pagoda are covered in intricate murals depicting the famous Cambodian poem, Reamker.
Note: Open from 8-11am and 2.30-5pm daily. Admission also includes access to the Royal Palace when the king is not in residence.
Included in: Cambodia Tour (Day 2)
HISTORIC
Visit The National Museum
Cambodia’s national museum is the country’s largest museum of cultural history, with a huge collection of Khmer art which includes over 14,000 items. The art dates from between the prehistoric ages to the modern day, and the collection from the Khmer Empire times is particularly impressive. The empire controlled a vast amount of land including parts of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar and China, with their art and architecture being particularly impressive.
The museum was opened in 1920 and despite being abandoned during the times of the Khmer rouge between 1975 – 1979, with the building being in disrepair, it was quickly reopened in April 1979. The museum provides a great source of pride and identity to the Cambodian people.
Additional day – in the morning before the silk island tour. This bit is self-guided.
See The Independence Monument
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The focal point of national celebrations even in the modern day, the independence monument was built in 1958 to celebrate Cambodian independence from the French in 1953, and is also used as a memorial to Cambodians who died fighting for their country.
The 20-metre-tall monument, shaped in the shape of a lotus (which can also be seen in Khmer empire architecture) was inaugurated on November 9th 1962, which is their independence day. Every year on this day, a ceremonial flame is lit on a pedestal inside the monument, and floral tributes line the stairs. The best view of the monument is from across the street, as access to the monument is prohibited.
MARKETS
Tourist Markets
Looking for unique Cambodian souvenirs and food? Be sure to visit these markets…
Explore Phnom Penh, Night Market
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Phnom Penh’s Night Market (Phsar Reatrey) sells everything from replica designer clothing and shoes, locally made souvenirs, and Cambodian silk, to amazing Cambodian street food with picnic-style floor seating. Located on the Tone Sap riverfront, the open-air market’s cooler temperatures and relaxing, festival vibes make this one of Phnom Penh’s most popular spots to visit.
Enjoy live entertainment with performances from singers, musicians, and dancers at the centre stage. It’s the only official night market in the city so it can get pretty busy!
Getting there: Opens from Friday to Sunday 17.00 to 00.00. Central Market is just over 2 kilometres from the city center. It takes just a few minutes to go there by tuk-tuk, taxi or bicycle.
Wander in The Central Market
Phnom Penh Central Market, also known as Phsar Thmei (meaning ‘New Market’), is the Cambodian capital’s largest market. Established in 1937, this market within an art-deco style dome features a huge indoor mall filled with four hallways filled with shops. At the time of its construction, Phsar Thmei was said to be the largest market in Asia.
The market is packed full of all kinds of goods, from impressively intricate gold and silverware to souvenirs, electronic goods, imported and traditional Cambodian clothing, flowers, and an impressive array of watches. You’ll also find an amazing selection of colourful fresh food stalls selling classic, local Camodian dishes.
Getting there: Phsar Thmei Market is located at Street 128 (Kampuchea Krom) in Phsar Thmei 1 Commune, Daun Penh District. It’s open daily from 6.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.
Visit The Russian Market
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The Russian Market in Phnom Penh is the one market that everyone travelling in the capital should come visit at least once. Why? Well, it is the place to shop for authentic Cambodian souvenirs and discounted name-brand (and knock-off) clothing. You’re likely to spot well-known brands such as Billabong, Calvin Klein, Banana Republic, Gap and Next.
The market gets its name from the Russian ex-pat population that visited and shopped here in the 1980s. Be sure to save some room for food though as the market serves everything from Kmer coffee and grilled bananas, to fried crickets and silkworms and the famous prahok.
Local Markets
If you want an authentic taste of Cambodia’s local life, these are the markets to visit…
Explore Orussey Market
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Orussey Market Phnom Penh is one of the most traditional markets located at the heart of the city.
The market is much more geared towards locals than tourists, so you won’t find as many souvenirs here. You are more likely to find local produce, food, electronics, and hardware here. But the main reason why you should visit Orussey Market is simply to immerse yourself in the local lifestyle. Explore as you watch local Cambodians go about their day selling and buying.
Stroll Through The Old Market (Phsar Chas)
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Phsar Chas, which roughly translated means the ‘Old Market’, is located 650 metres walking distance to the southeast of Wat Phnom in Phnom Penh.
The market occupies a whole city block and sells mainly fresh fruit, meat, and vegetables. One of the more crowded markets in Phnom Penh, it’s definitely worth a visit to observe the bustle and local life in the busy Capital.
Unlike the nearby Central Market, Phnom Penh’s Old Market is a mainly outdoor market which caters for Cambodian shoppers looking for cheap buys.
Tip: Opening times vary, but food stalls are open as early as 6am and close as late as 8pm. When the Old Market shuts down, the Night Market across the road opens up.
CULTURAL
Explore Wat Phnom
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Built in 1372, Wat Phnom is on the only ‘hill’ in Phnom Penh. Legend has it that the first pagoda on this site was built to house four statues of Buddha deposited here by the waters of the Mekong River and discovered by Lady Penh. Hence the city name Phnom Penh or ‘hill of Penh’. At 27 metres tall, Wat Phnom is the tallest religious structure in the city.
Included in: Cambodia Tour (Day 2 – self-guided after the main tour)
Reputedly one of the city’s five original wats, Wat Langka is a colourful Buddhist temple in the heart of the city. Located near the Independence Monument, the temple was originally established as a sanctuary for holy writings – acting as the main library in Cambodia for religious writings. The temple luckily managed to escape total destruction by the Khmer rouge as it was used as their main storehouse.
Visit Botum Pagoda Park (Wat Botum)
Established in 1432, Botum Pagoda Park was one of the five original monasteries founded by King Ponhea Yat that survived the Khmer Rouge reign. Many politicians and high-ranking people in the city are buried here.
At the park, you’ll find the Cambodian-Vietnamese Friendship Monument. There is also a huge sandstone figure of a Khmer woman holding a baby, flanked by two armed Vietnamese liberation soldiers. It commemorates the Vietnamese liberation of Phnom Penh from the Khmer Rouge in January 1979.
Tour Silk Island
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Jump in a tuk-tuk and escape the bustle of the city as you head to Cambodia’s peaceful Silk Island. Located in the middle of the Mekong River, Silk Island is named for its traditional silk-weaving communities. You will learn about the silk-making process and be able to buy some authentic silks and cotton for yourself. Known locally as Koh Dach, Silk Island offers a unique experience and insight into the rural Cambodian lifestyle.
Included in: Cambodia Tour (Additional Day)
EXPERIENCE
Dine In The Dark
Did you know that there are over 15,000 blind people in Cambodia? Dine in the Dark was inspired by this concept and the fact that for most, dining is the dark is an everyday reality. The organization embraces this and offers guests a unique fine-dining experience in a completely blacked-out restaurant.
The waiters (who are all blind or visually impaired) will bring you a 4-course international or vegetarian surprise meal. You will never see the food – only taste. Without sight, your other senses become heightened, creating a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience!
Why we love it: Dine in the Dark gives disabled people in Cambodia equal working opportunities while offering guests a rare perspective. The service team themselves have visual impairments and are fluent in both Khmer and English.
Visit Cambodia Living Arts’ Theatre Show
The Living Arts Theatre in Cambodia is a stunning open-air theatre in the gardens of the national museum. Dancers and live musicians tell stories of Cambodian history through captivating performances. It’s a must-visit amongst tourists, and you can even join artists for a 90-minute classical and folk dance workshop.
Visit Daughters of Cambodia
Founded by Ruth Elliott, a British psychologist who was working with young victims of sex trafficking, Daughters of Cambodia helps women to escape sex work. The charity offers alternative employment, holistic recovery, life skill education, and much more. Within the boutique, you’ll find fashion accessories, t-shirts, toys, jewellery, and more. There’s even a spa and cafe to chill out in – all whilst helping an amazing cause.
Explore Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center
Located around 25 miles from the city, the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center is the largest Zoo in Cambodia. It has over 1,200 rescued animals, many of which are listed as endangered or vulnerable. You’ll spot elephants, tigers, gibbons, crocodiles, bears, and more. The zoo cares for these animals and helps to rehabilitate them from the illegal wildlife trades in Cambodia.
Tip: Ticket entry costs 5 USD per adult and 2.5 USD per child.
SIGHTSEEING
Cruise Down the Mekong River
Be sure to spend a full day exploring the beautiful and picturesque Mekong Delta. Made up of 39,000 square kilometres of waterways, Mekong is the twelfth longest river in the world. It’s also the seventh-longest river in the whole of Asia. Phnom Penh marks the beginning of the delta system of the Mekong River.
Hop on a tourist boat for a relaxing cruise along the Mekong River itself. You’ll pass by stilt houses, schools, rice paddies, fruit plantations, and floating fishing villages. The most common boat trips are sunset cruises which also include dinner. Alternatively, explore the Mekong River via water taxi. This is a cheaper option but is also a popular form of transport for locals commuting.
Included in: Cambodia Tour (Additional Day)
